Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
